Commitment (5.9)

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Quick Facts

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Approach Time: 

10 mins
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Descent Time: 

10 mins
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Length: 

3 pitches
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Rating: 

5.9
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Quality: 

3
Your rating: 3
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Crowds: 

4
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Highlights: 

Commitment (5.9) along with Munginella (5.6) is one the two classics of the Five Open Books area. Clean rock, nice climbing and a short approach all recommend the route.

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Details: 

There are two options for the approach

  • Walk a short ways along the trail to Lower Yosemite Falls. Where you see the bronze interpretive scultupure of the falls, cut left into the woods. Since this area is trodden by thousands of feet every day, there's no distinct trail for the first 50-100 feet. Look for one of the carabiner signs on a wooden post. Follow the short but steep trail to the base of the cliff. Most routes are to the right. The trail coming down from the left is the descent route.
  • Just shy of the bridge, head up on indistinct or non-existent trails to the base of the cliff follow the cliff until you find the tree-covered ledge that leads you up to the start of the route.

As for the climb itself, look for the prominent overhang in the top of the major dihedral system that is second from the left (so the second of the five open books). A nice handcrack above an oak tree leads you to a two-bolt anchor in one short pitch. Another short pitch leads past a tree to a nice ledge with a gear belay. Finally, climb up to the big roof, then traverse right out and around it. This move is the committing part of Commitment—reach up and around on good handholds but insecure feet until you're established in the easy dihedral above. Climb the corner and exit left onto sandy slopes.

You can rappel the route, but it's a relatively quick walk down across sometimes exposed ledges, but in the early season, the wildflowers can be exceptional.

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