Other people will cover this with a lot more detail than I will, but I was down in the meadow today and got to see Hans and Alex shave 13 minutes off the record on The Nose — new time: 2:23:46. It was pretty clear from early on that they were going to get the record. Already at Camp V they were over 10 minutes ahead of pace. It's been years since this much was shaven off in a single push.

Unlike Hans and Yuji's record climb, where Yuji lead from start to finish, Hans lead to Eagle Ledge and then Alex took over for the summit push. The only gear handoff was at Eagle Ledge, meaning that they basically climbed the whole Nose in two long pitches. And that means this ascent was kind of slow, because I can do to long pitches in less than 2:23. Okay, my long pitches aren't 1500 feet each, so there may be a difference there.